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SD2000 Performance Issues

I have a 2012 Hurricane SD2000 that I bought brand new.  It has the Yamaha F150 o/b.  When I first bought it I was having performance issues with prop cavitation, extremely hard to get "out of the hole" and up on a plane and I could not touch the trim from full down without the prop cavitating and losing bite.  The dealer tried different props and eventually contacted Hurricane.  After much discussion I was told I have a "hook" in the hull which was causing the water flow below the boat to deflect downward away from the prop.  The motor was lowered as low as it could and still had the same problem.  The dealer and Hurricane considered installing a Jack Plate to get the motor lower but it would not work so they eventually installed a 5" extension kit on the motor and a longer (30") shaft.  Afterwards I was getting better performance but now it is too low in the water and I get excessive spray kicking up behind the boat.  I have had the motor raised to the highest settings and still get the spray behind the boat.  I love the boat but hate the way the motor looks now and I cant get rid of the spray from behing the boat.  Is anyone else experiencing this or did I get stuck with a lemmon?  

Comments

  • JhighersJhighers Posts: 11Member

    After reading through the Hurricane Owner’s Forum site and other online comments, I have realized that I am not the only one that is experiencing performance issues with Hurricane Sundeck models.  I have read comments  like: “it is a hog to get out of the hole”,  “I am having trouble getting on a plane”,  “I am porpoising”, “I cannot trim” and so on.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

    The transom height does not allow the motor to be lowered enough for the prop to maintain an effectively bite on the water below the hull line.  By adding a 5” extension on my motor the problem went away, good power out of the hole, no problem getting on a plane, minimal porpoising and good trimming, but even with the motor now mounted on the highest setting the cavitation plate is slightly below the water line causing drag and kicking up a spray behind the boat.  So, from experiencing both configurations,  it appears that if the transom had been designed 2”-3”lower it would have eliminated all of these problems and would allow the boat and motor to perform correctly.

    After the Hurricane Warranty/Customer Service Representative consulted with the Hurricane Engineering Department their only offer to resolve this issue is to return my motor back to its original configuration (take the extension out), which will only worsen the performance of the boat.  At least now I am getting better performance.  I am concerned about the resale of my boat someday and having to explain why my motor has an extension added, but at least I can explain to them what the performance was like without it.   

    I still love my boat and other than this issue have nothing to complain about.  I hope that Hurricane will take action on future models to correct this design.  I am very disappointed that Hurricane does not acknowledge this issue or stand behind their product enough to come up with solution to correct. 

  • tmills3202tmills3202 Posts: 14Member
    I have a 2008 SD2000 with a Yamaha 200 and I have had none of the issues you are describing. I did add "Smart Tabs" that help it plane a little sooner and stay on plane at slower speeds but other than that it is fine and I have seen 52 on the GPS and two people in the boat. I have been very happy with the performance.
  • JhighersJhighers Posts: 11Member
    Tmills, that's good to hear. I was thinking of trying the smart tabs but wasn't sure it could be done with the way the back of the sd sticks out on both sides. How close to the "extensions" are they on each side?
  • wgaf2024wgaf2024 Posts: 4Member

    I have a 2012 SD2000 with a 200 HP Yamaha O/B.  I found the steering to be slow and I was over compersating while docking to get the boat to turn. I installed a Orca-Performance Fin which I purchased from Uncle Norm's Marine Products.  The steering is at least 3 times quicker, also the Fin puts me on plane very quickly.  I used their no drill clamp system to attach the Fin to my lower unit.  I highly recommed this unit. Check it out on You Tube.

  • callforbidscallforbids Posts: 54Member ✭✭

    I had problems planing my 2008 Sundeck 2000, and found that weight distribution made a big difference. That doesn't help much with two to four passengers. Keeping the hull on plane at a good cruising speed and economical RPM of 3000 was even more of a challenge. When you would get above the porpoising the hull would plane and you would jump to 4,000? or so RPM.

    I also had good success with Smart Tabs. I just purchased a 2002 Sundeck 237 to take to Florida and am excited to see how this 250 I/O performs. I hope it planes well as it has an extended swim platform, and I am concerned whether I can install Smart Tabs on it..

    By the way, Hi Tom Mills! Will be in Florida hopefully Friday. Let's get together.

     

  • callforbidscallforbids Posts: 54Member ✭✭
    Just found a picture which is attached to this message on where Smart Tab engineer recommended installing their tabs on a 2008 SunDeck 2000. Good luck!
    nauticus.jpg 111.9K
  • cjjjdeckcjjjdeck Posts: 543Member, Moderator ✭✭✭

    I also had good success with Smart Tabs. I just purchased a 2002 Sundeck 237 to take to Florida and am excited to see how this 250 I/O performs. I hope it planes well as it has an extended swim platform, and I am concerned whether I can install Smart Tabs on it..

    You may luck out and not need the Smart Tabs on the 237 as the deadrise is 12.5 degrees verses 16 degrees for the SD2000 (I haven't needed them on mine).


    Thanks for posting that picture of the location of "tabs" for the SD2000, very helpful!

     


    2012 SD237 I/O Mercruiser 5.0L MPI ECT/ Bravo 3
    2012 Load Rite Elite Tandem axle trailer

  • brobinbrobin Posts: 11Member
    I'm the new owner of a 2010 SD2000 and want to improve the planing and more responsive steering would be a nice plus. I'm deciding between the Smart Tabs PT9510-60 as recommended by Gary at Nauticus or the Orca Fin mentioned by wgaf2024. I know I can't use both!  Any thoughts would be appreciated!
  • nquirknquirk Posts: 552Member, Moderator ✭✭✭✭
    @brobin, outside of wga2024, I've never heard of anyone using the Orca Fin.  Not meaning there is anything wrong but for planing, most everyone else has selected the trim tabs.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    2010 Hurricane SS 188 OB
    2010 Mercury Optimax 200HP / Mercury SS High Five 19P
    2010 Trailmaster SC trailer
  • brobinbrobin Posts: 11Member
    Thanks that's what I'm thinking too. I was going to go with the SX1290-60 but Nauticus recommended the PT9510-60 as a better option for the SD2000. Being narrower I won't have to relocate the transducer. I'm going to use the PR500 retractable mounting brackets.
  • nquirknquirk Posts: 552Member, Moderator ✭✭✭✭

    @brobin.   Post some pics when you're done.  Always great if you can help others.

    And, the PR500 is an excellent decision.  I know when I install mine, I'll be using them as well.  Small price to pay for the retractable capabilities.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    2010 Hurricane SS 188 OB
    2010 Mercury Optimax 200HP / Mercury SS High Five 19P
    2010 Trailmaster SC trailer
  • wgaf2024wgaf2024 Posts: 4Member

    I have a 2012 SD2000 with a 200hp Yamaha O/B.  I found the steering at slow speeds to be sluggish and very slow to responding while docking.  I've installed a Orca Fin purchased from Uncle Norm's  Marine Products.  This Orca Fin also puts the boat on plane fast. Check it out on You Tube or the Web Site.

    Uncle Norm's Marine Products - Boating and Fishing

    I recommend it, you will not be disappointed.

  • brobinbrobin Posts: 11Member
    Here are some photos of the Smart Tab SX9510-60 tabs with PR500 retractors I installed. Out of the hole in seconds now!  Very happy with these. Installation took me about an hour.

  • callforbidscallforbids Posts: 54Member ✭✭
    What size (#10, #12) and what length screws did you use to mount the tabs to the transom?
  • brobinbrobin Posts: 11Member
    I used the screws included with the kit which are #14 3/4" SS sheet metal screws.  I drilled 7/32" holes (as recommended for fiberglass) and used 3M 5200 sealant in all the screw holes.  Other than the sealant there's nothing else you have to furnish.  For tools, the minimum you need is a drill with a 7/32" bit, a large Phillips bit or screwdriver, a wide blade flat head screwdriver and a pair of pliers.   I assembled the PR500 brackets and attached them to the struts indoors beforehand to minimize time under the hot sun.  If you use your drill/driver to attach the brackets to the transom set the torque adjustment to about half way or just enough to snug the screws and then hand tighten to finish.

    One thing to note: When I first read the directions for the PR500 brackets I realized the the attachment point on the struts was different than what was pictured and not compatible with the brackets.  After opening the bag of parts however, I saw that they had included the proper parts to replace the ones on the struts which you simply unscrew and replace.  No mention of that in the instructions though.

    You'll be be real happy with these tabs!  It's like a different (better) boat now.
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